Introducing Filip to Dominican Rome.

During the time that we have been in Rome, we got official word of Filip's final acceptance into the Western Dominican Province. Congratulations, Filip. (We knew that the final vote was a matter of formality, an earlier vote had determined that he would be accepted so that the Province could get to work on the immigration issues connected to his entering.) It wa snice for him to receive the official word while residing at the Angelicum, the Order's university in Rome. On Friday and Saturday, Filip and I made a concerted effort to see the sites important to the Order here inthe Eternal City.

First, on Friday afternoon, we were given a tour of Santa Sabina, the world headquarters of the Order by Fr. Bob Ombres, the Procurator General (chief legal council) of the Order. This is a very high official of the Order who is very busy with weighty matters of Church law, yet he took time to offer us hospitality and gave a very thorough historical tour of the 1600 year old Church that serves as the Center of the Order. Some Highlights: The CHurch that currently occupies the site on the Piazza Peter d'Illira is the same one htat has been there since it was buit in the 5th Century and dedicated to the memory of a Roman aristocratic woman who had converted to Christianity because of the example of her slave woman, Seraphia. Peter d'Illiria, a wealthy priest built the monument to house the relics of Santa Sabina, Santa Seraphia and others who had been martyred during the persecutions of Diocletian. Those relics are still under the high altar of the Church.

Also original are the beautiful wooden doors that open to the center of the nave. On the upper left panel of those doors is the earliest known representation of Christ being crucified. For three centuries CHristian art did not show this scene. Why? Well probably because Christians were still being crucified on a regular basis. Such a depiction would have been considered crass and undignified. But since that scene appeared on the doors of Santa Sabina, it had become quite commonpalce in the Christian World. And for 1600 years, CHristians have worshipped inthe Basilica on thos site in full view of the Crucifix and in celebration ofv the glory such an ignominious death provides for those who believe.

Fr. Bob showed us the changes that have taken place in the Church over the centuries inclufding the addition of hte schola cantorum and the permanent Paschal Candle stand inthe 10th Century. Santa Sabina was given to Saint Dominic by Pope Honorius III as the headquarters for his newly approved Order. So that CHurch has been sacred to the DOminicans for all 800 years of our history - BUT it had already been sacred place of Christian worship for 800 years before that! Fr. Bob showed us feature of the Church that were sacred to the DOminicans, including the tomb of a Dominican friar in the center of the Nave that bears the only funerary image in Mosaic in the world.

Then the real fun begin. Fr. Bob lead us ito the Convent where we saw the Cloister garden. That's me next to the well in the center of the cloister. We also saw the famous orange tree that was planted by Saint Dominicn and has been producing oranges, seeds, and seedlings since the 13th Century. Fr. Bob took us to the Chapel that had been the room occupied by Pope St. Pius V when he wanted to escape Papal life and spend time in community with his Dominican brothers. Then we walked down the stairs adn saw the door marked "Cella de S. Domenico" and we entered that room, which is now a chapel. Friday was the Feast of St. Boniface, the Benedictine missionary and apostle to the German people. I celebrated Mass in the small Chapel of St. Dominic's cell. I preached a brief homily about Misson - the MIssion of St. Boniface, the Mission of St. Dominic - this is the same Mission that Jesus gave to the Apostles and that he gives to all of us. I shared with Filip the call of hte Dominican to be faithful to that Mission of bringing the Gospel to the World there in the room where our tireless founder had rested fro his journeys - his thousands of miles of MIssion all over Europe - faithful to the Mission had received from God and to which he was committed until his dying breath. There in his room, my prayer for Filip is the same as my prayer for myself and everyother Dominican: that we can always be affcted by the life and spirit of our founder and be as faithful as he was to Preaching the Gospel with our lives and with our words. Congratualtions Filip, Gid bless you as you begin this remarkable journey. It has been fun to share this time with you in Rome!

Angels and Demons?

For all you "Angels and Demon" fans - you will recognize this sculpture. More on this in a couple of hours!

Old Bones and Sacred Stones

The Thursday Pilgrimage to the Papal Basilicas was crowned by our second visit to San Pietro in Vaticano – the Mother of all Churches – I mean “the Mother Church of all Christendom…” I have walked around St. Peter’s probably 25 times over the years (this is my 7th trip to Rome.) I have celebrated Mass there. I have celebrated reconciliation there both as a penitent and as confessor. I have visited the grottoes with the tombs of the Popes. I have ascended to the top of Michelangelo’s dome. I have prayed before holy images and sacred relics. I have strolled the gardens and enjoyed every inch of the museums. I have been inspired by lofty speeches by great men in Michelangelo’s colonnaded Piazza. I have marveled at the art and been bowled over by the scope of the place. But nothing – nothing - compares to the experience I had on Thursday. I have heard that the tour of the "Vatican Scavi” was a great tour. I have tried on numerous previous occasions to get tickets, but there are very few given out and they are hard to come by. It is one of the few things in Rome that you cannot get by asking some one to “pull strings.” But even the demand and the difficulty did not prepare me for the reality. So what’s there that had me so awestruck?

Quite simply – a cemetery; or rather, a “necropolis,” or a city of the dead. The tour was technical, historical, and archeological. In the end it was also apologetic. The guide, Sarah, a young woman from New York (of Indian extraction) was clearly a scholar. She began methodically explaining why the 16th Century edifice that was currently occupied by literally thousands of pilgrims and tourists was built precisely where it was. She showed us the excavations that run the length of the Basilica, starting in the East end of the Church. She explained, as we walked through the narrow excavated corridors between walls of meticulously laid 2000 year old bricks, that we should envision a small city of tiny houses built as monuments to the dead and places to cultically honor ancestors. I thought of the above ground tombs in New Orleans – some of which are, quite literally little houses. Sarah told us that the corridors we walked had been tread by Roman pagans more than 20 centuries before. The only difference was that when they had walked them they would not have been ceilinged corridors, they would have been streets opened to the canopy of the sky, the sounds of the city and rush of the river. She spoke of pagan burial custom and rituals, she explained the various chambers of several of the tombs. She translated inscriptions that helped us understand this unique place. She helped us understand how this had moved from a pagan place to a place sacred to Christians in the first century. She showed us models of a succession of structures that had occupied this site since the legalization of Christianity: a 4th Century Basilica, a 12th Century expansion, a 16th Century Basilica (currently in use), but all began with one simple tomb that had been a center of Christian cultus not since the 4th Century, but since the 1st.

The question is asked: Why would the Emperor Constantine, anxious to expand the influence of Christianity and to bolster its claims, have chosen this site on which to build the first basilica (Roman administration building) dedicated exclusively to public, Christian worship? It was a site unworthy of such an exalted building for a number of reasons: It was not in central Rome, but rather out of the way. The slope of the Vatican hill would make for a very difficult foundation, the pagan nature of the place would offend Christians; and pagans, who were now being persecuted, would be outraged by this “desecration” of a place that had been sacred to them for perhaps centuries. So why here? The necropolis on this site had grown up around a major Neronian Circus (think Stadium) that had become the central place for the persecution and execution of Christians after Nero blamed them for the Fires of Rome. One particular martyrdom and the burial of its victim in that Necropolis began to change the nature of the Necropolis. Christians had long held that the body of the Apostle Peter was interred in that necropolis. From the first Century until the fourth, Peter’s tomb, including its location and precise shape, was well-known to Christians. This Necropolis was a major pilgrimage site from the 1st Century not only because it had been the site of Peter’s execution, but because it was the site of his burial. THAT is why Constantine chose this site. That is why there have been a succession of monuments and structures honoring Peter on this site.

Over the course of the Centuries, the tomb of Peter itself had become obscured by the projects of “current” Christian communities, though it had been held that the high altar of each successive building was built precisely over the tomb. The post-enlightenment obsession with empirical proof, and the need to renovate the crypt beneath St. Peter’s, led to the discovery of the intact portions of the necropolis and an ambitious archeological project to find the tomb, and (hopefully) relics of St. Peter.

Sarah the Guide, led us step-by-step through the archeological story. She used models, diagrams, and photos to prepare us for what each successive underground movement would let us see. She showed us walls of the 1st-4th Century structures that bore the Saints relics, she showed us the 12th Century tomb, that entirely encased the 4th Century monolith that had been erected to honor Peter. She showed us the floor levels of the Constantinian Basilica and the 12th Century altar. She explained how one archeologist broke through into the chamber that they were sure was Peter’s tomb and found bones. Had they found St. Peter? “Not unless he had 6 knees,” she said. They had found the knees of three people, two of whom were women and the third was a man who had died in his 40s. We knew that could not be Peter. Sarah lead us through the story of how they eventually and quite accidentally stumbled upon 25 bone fragments which were dated to the first century and were those of a man who had died in his 60s. (I have since read that they were also determined to be the bones of a Jewish man who died in the first century AD.) As we moved into the last room, Sarah explained what we would be looking at – as we rounded the corner and peered through a hole broken into a stone wall, there was a plexiglass case containing 16 bones believed by historians, archeologists, and Churchmen to be the bones of the Apostle Peter – there was the Rock on which Jesus (and Constantine, and Julius II) chose to build his Church.

So why was this such an amazing experience for me? I already believe in the special relationship between Peter and Jesus and the implications of that relationship for the leadership of the early Church. I already believe that our contemporary understanding of both ministry and authority rests firmly on the Rock. So what difference does this make? Those who know me well know that my conversion to Catholicism was driven largely by my love for history and the conviction that an historical understanding of faith is not only important, it is vital to a complete Catholic faith. History was so important in my conclusion that the Catholic Church was the Church founded by Jesus. This very scholarly approach to the Rock, this very logical unfolding of more than 1700 years of Catholic history – 1900 years of Christian history excites every fiber of my historian being. It is a marvelous exercise in history, archeology, and theology.

As I stood there peering into the tomb that held the bones of Peter, looking at what are likely the relics of that important 1st Century Christian figure, I was moved to tears. My faith was reaffirmed in a beautiful way. Proof? I don’t need proof; faith is not about proof. Encouragement? Connection? History? Oh yeah!

Then as I was standing there listening to Sarah explain to us that this tour and the history connected to it are enough for most historians to draw the conclusion that archeology had found the bones of the chief among Jesus’ apostles, I was grateful for my connection to it. I am always aware of the giants on whose shoulders we stand as a people of faith. I was proud of our Church and my faith. Then Sarah asked me if I would offer a prayer and blessing. Completely unexpected. It took me a second to compose myself – but I thanked God for the historical nature of our faith; and I asked that our study of history might lead us to deeper truth and more profound faith. I know I was asked to lead that prayer because I am a priest and I was wearing my habit, but it is a privilege that I accepted gladly. As I made the sign of the cross in blessing over those 13 or 14 pilgrims, I was so grateful for my priesthood and for our Church that recognizes the importance of history.

I encourage anyone who is coming to Rome to contact the Scavi Office and ask for a chance to take this tour. It is the best thing in Rome for 10 euro. This is the website where you can find more information: http://www.vatican.va/roman_curia/institutions_connected/uffscavi/documents/rc_ic_uffscavi_doc_gen-information_20040112_en.html

And the email address to request tickets: scavi@fsp.va

"Little Vatican Islands"

Today was a day of pilgrimage to the Papal Basilicas throughout Rome. We started with a brief Metro ride (we are modern pilgrims) to the Via Ostiense to the place of St. Paul’s martyrdom and tomb. The Church of St. Paul Outside the Walls is always a special place, but especially so during this special year dedicated to the honor of St. Paul (which ends in a couple of weeks). So we were blessed to make it under the wire (with regards to the indulgence connected to this particular pilgrimage (and those of you who know me know how important those things are to me ;) ). The Holy Door opened for the year of St. Paul is still open and we wandered through it.

Among the features unique to this basilica are the series of medallions commemorating all the Bishops of Rome from Peter to Ben15. When I was here in 2005, Pope Benedict had just been elected and there were few images of him in evidence around the city. Now they are everywhere – including among the medallions at SPOtW. [You can see Pope Benedict's medallion to the right of this massive statue of St. Paul in this photo.] Filip pointed out that there were only 5 more medallions left – room for only 5 more Popes and the world has to come to an end. (Hmmm…does this mean that there are going to be 5 more popes between now and December 21, 2012?) [And if you have no idea what that means, Google that date…]

We arrived at St. Pauls just as a Mass was beginning and we attended. The Mass and preaching were in Italian, but I was, in a miracle of Pentecost, able to understand virtually every word. The priest, preaching on the story of Tobit, said that the story was an apologetic against ancient superstitions. Tobias, accompanied by the powers of St. Raphael the Archangel [oh yeah – congratulations to Fr. Raphael Salzillo on his ordination to the priesthood!] is able to cure Tobit’s blindnesss using the healing properties found in fish liver oil. Medicine, under the guidance of a healing angel, is how people are cured, not superstitious practices. Good message for a group of people who were perhaps about to wander through a particular door in hopes that it would get them a get out hell free card… And I think that was his message – don’t depend on superstitious practices, depend on the grace of God.’

We had lunch at another important pilgrimage shrine: McDonald’s. Go ahead and laugh – this country eats a lot of carbs. Hamburgers have much needed protein!

After lunch we took the metro to Termini and walked a couple blocks to the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore: the oldest Church in Christendom dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Here there is a relic of the manger of Jesus – encased n gold and silver – under the high altar. Dominicans have two special connections to this Church: we have been the ministers in this pilgrimage site for centuries and our famous Pope, Pius V, is buried there. I was not able to get into the chapel of St. Pius because it was locked – I will go back at time of a daily mass and be able to get in. It is only a few short blocks from the Angelicum, where I am staying.

Next, we walked (like more traditional pilgrims) to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (St. John’s on the Lateran Hill), the Pope’s church as Bishop of the City and diocese of Rome. Some interesting facts – This Church is officially dedicated as “Holy Savior," but has two patrons: Ss John the Baptist and John the Evangelist. It was the site of numerous ecumenical councils (hence “Lateran Councils") during the middle ages. It was the official residence of the Popes throughout most of the Church’s history. The Vatican has only been the official residence of he Pope since 1929. The three basilicas we visited today that are not part of the Vatican ARE part of the Vatican. That is, they are officially territories of the Vatican City State – Little Vatican Islands in the vast sea that is Rome.

One of my favorite features of this Basilica is how light it is. Compared to the cavern-like nature of the other basilicas, this one is flooded with light all day every day. I also love the much-larger-than-life sculptures of the Apostles that line the nave. See the photo of me beneath the statue of St. Bart for scale. St. Paul’s Basilica also has such statues, but these are much lighter and more animated than those at St. Paul’s. We also went into the beautiful cloister of San Giovanni.

At this Church, I stopped to pray some special prayers for Sr Diane, whose brother just died, for Megan Stull, who’s mom was just diagnosed with another round of cancer, and for my uncle Laddie, who died right before I left the States.

Finally, we boarded the Metro and headed for the Vatican for the last and biggest of the Papal Basilica’s and one of the most interesting and inspiring events of my life. More on that in the next post.

Big Post Coming on Saturday

These are a few pictures from Thursday and Friday to wet your appetite for the big post that I will upload tomorrow. I finally found an interpoint where I can plug in my own computer and work from it. It also has decent upload speeds so I can upload the picture files without it costing an arm and a leg (Oh the tings we take for granted in the USA!) I was having a great conversation over dinner with my classmate, Alejandro, who teaches at the Dominican Pontifical University here in Rome. He said that even after four years of full time residency here he finds living in Rome so frustrating because the "Roman way of doing things" is just so different from the rest of the world. He went through a long list of his frustrations.. It was kind of amusing. But then he told me about this internet cafe and assured me they would be able to help me here. SO I will be back in the morning with my posts about Thursday and Friday. For those of you on Facebook, you can see a lot of pictures over on my facebook page now. Those pics will be available on this blog tomorrow.

A Visit to the Home Office

So I calls up the Pope and I says " Hey Padro Santo (He likes that nickname)!"

He said "Hey! Fray Bart (which he calls me in these informal moments), long time, no chat!"

I said "Si Padre Santo - you're never on Facebook anymore!"

"I know, regrettable," he responded, "but I been travellin'"

"Hey, I know," I said, "That's kinda what I am calling about, I'm headed to Jerusalem and I know you were there recently and I wonder if you have tips for the pilgrim to the Holy Land..."

"Yeah! Look... I got a tight schedules these days, but why don't you drop by on Wednesday and I'll leave a couple of VIP tickets for you and your friends and we can chat..."

So that's not exactly the way that it happened, but I ended up in the VIP section at Wednesday's general papal audience: it is the second time that I was fortunate enough to sit ion this section and it meant that I was very close to the "action" as Pope Benedict gave his Catechesis tothe gathered thousands in Piazza San Pietro on Wednesday. We were three or four rows back from the stage (O my God, we had third row seats for Papapalooza!!!!) and had excellent position to observe his arrival and departure adn to hear his inspirational instruction.

I am hanging out with Filip Leonarski and "Dr. Dan" Buffington in Rome these days. It has been a great start to the pilgrimage that will ultimately take me to the Promised Land. ù

I have taken more than 300 pictures in the last two days and am anxious to share them with you, but I am limited because of my need to use internet cafes here in Italy and the limitations placed on the use of such public computers. Besided that, Italy has the most restrictive internet identy rules in the world and that makes it difficult for me to use my own computer at internet "hot spots" that are so prevalent in the US. So I ask your patience. I may not get photos uploaded until I get to Jerusalem. We'll see.

My cell phone does not work in Italy and that has been an interesting exercise. Today, I got separated from Dr. Dan and we could not communicate with each other. We even both tried telepahy. It was so frustrating not being able to resort to my electronic arsenal. But it is also refreshing to know that I am basically cut off from the rigors of everyday life so I can really enjoy this brief time of vacation before I head for Jerusalem.

In addition to the Papal audience, on Wednesday, we also visited the Tombs of the popes in the Vatican Grottoes. That was great preparation for the visit to the Vatican Scavi tour in which we will participate on Thursday.

We have planned a Thursday tour of the four Papal Basilicas on Thursday, beginning with St: Paul's outside the Walls (great being that this is a year dedicated to St. Paul and this is the primary pilgrimage church associated with the special year of observances) and ending with the Tour of the excavations of the Necropolis beneath St. Peter's Basilica. More on this in the next post. Ciao!

The Adventure Begins

It is 4:00 in the morning in the Eternal City and, of course, I am wide awake. I arrived Tuesday morning at 9:00 am. By the time I retrieved my baggage and made my way by train into the City, it was noon. June 2 is the Italian equivalent of the US's July 4 or France's July 14. Because of parade traffic, the central city was very crowded and what should have been a short taxi ride from the train station to the Angelicum turned into a rather expensive tour of Central Rome. But the mood of the city is festive. Despite the economy, Rome is as crowded as ever with tourists.

Daniel Buffington, who just graduated from UA School of Medicine and his friend Derek met me at 3 pm. at the Angelicum. I took them to my favorite gelato shop on Via de Serpente and we indulged. Filip Leonarski flew in from Poland today and is staying with me at the Angelicum. I was able to secure a room for him as one who has been accepted for admisssion into our Province). We walked over to the American Bishops office in Rome (at the North American College) to pick up our tickets for the Papal Audience on Wednesday. We were delighted to find that we were given tickets in the VIP section. More on this later.

We had dinner at a lovely little restaurant on the Piazza di Sancti Apostoli and celebrated our arrival in Rome with Pasta alla carbonara! After dinner I left the young people to their nocturnal exploration of Rome and I headed back to the Angelicum for sweet, sweet sleep. I was quite tired all day yesterday (having been in transit for more than 18 hours the day before) but forced myself to stay awake so I would sleep tonight. It did not work! That's why I am sitting in the computer room of the Angelicum at such a horribly late (early?) time recording this blog.

No pearls of wisdom - just a lovely beginning to this adventure of a lifetime!