I have been very much looking forward to going to Hebron to see the tombs of the Patriarchs. This site is holy to Jews, Christians, ad Muslims, all of whom see these Patriarchs (Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, and their wives) as the progenitors of our Faiths. The site at Hebron has always been known and there is no doubt of its authenticity as the caves which Abraham purchased to serve as tombs for his family in the land God had given him. (Abraham's bargaining for the field is a great story in Genesis 23). My recent recollection of Hebron goes back to 1994 when a member of the Israeli Army that guards the tombs and maintains Peace between the Jews and Muslims who worship there (and each of whom would rather the other did not) barged into the mosque and opened fire on Muslim worshippers, killing 39 and injuring more than 100 others before being subdued and beat to death by the survivors of his massacre. The tomb that might (in any other time and place) stand as a monument to what is common the Jews and Arabs, is instead a monument to conflict and a hindrance to peace.
So I was anxious to see Hebron and to visit the tombs. Historically, there are just not many other places more importatn in Israel. The first challenge of course is that it is in the Palestinian West Bank, which means checkpoints and limited roads just like we had encountered when going to Bethlehem and Bethany. The wall remains a real challenge for me. But we made the journey. Once on the other side of the wall we travelled Israeli roads for a time, but eventually had to get off on Palestinian roads - yes apartheid in this country extends to highways. We had a map, but signage on the Palestinian roads is horrible, at best, and non-existent at worst. We might have gotten lost were it not for a kind Palestinian who went out of his way to guide us to Hebron. That was an adventure too as he took us through a shortcut that I was not sure was actually going to get us there. But Father Gregory trusted the hospitality of this man and we landed in Hebron.
Hebron is a large Palestinian City - which means it is chaotic. We eventually made our way to the Old City and walked to the tombs - having to pass through two checkpoints and numerous metal detectors to get there. We arrived just as the Muslim side of the shrine was closing for lunch. So we walked through another checkpoint across to the area of occupied settler Hebron and made our way around to the Jewish Side of shrine. My immediate impression was the large number of Palestinian shops that were shuttered. On the Palestinian side shops have had to close because visitors (pilgrims) simply find it too hard to get here because of travel restrictions. Tour and pilgrim groups that have been arranged by Israeli companies or which are lead by Israeli tour guides cannot, by Israeli law, go into areas controlled by the Palestinian Authority. Even though the shrine is under the direct control of the Israeli Army, it is very hard for Jews to get there. But Christian Groups have trouble too largely because their guides are usually Jews with no access to PA areas. So the businesses in Old Hebron are being squeezed to death.
There is another severe problem as well: Israeli Settlements. Hebron has existed for many years as a divided city. Hebron is Palestinian and there is a large Jewish City next to it. But beginning a few years ago, Israeli settlers started occupying empty houses around Old Hebron close to the Tomb of the Patriarchs. Then Settlers started building houses literally on the roofs of Palestinians houses. Israeli law allows this and even provides troops to protect the settlers - even though such settlements have been roundly condemned by the international community over and over again. We spent some time today showing us all the techniques being intentionally used by the settlers to deprive Palestinian families of their livelihood and make life so uncomfortable for them that they will leave - despite the fact that the Palestinians are in houses that have been in their families for generations. Settler compounds are built and supported by US foreign aid. I have to admit that this is weighing heavily on my. I don't pretend to know all the ins and outs of the Israeli/Palestinian conflict, but I know apartheid and ghettoizing when I see it.
I was glad to see the tomb of the Patriarchs. The Wall built by King Herod around this sacred precinct is a true masterpiece of Ancient Jewish architecture and yet another surviving testimony to the genius of Herod's building efforts (It is the best surviving Herodian structure). That Wall was intended to honor this sacred place - today I was more pre-occupied with walls - so many walls - that dishonor this place as signs of division and hatred.
The current mosque is a converted Crusader-era Church and the Muslims have created a beautiful space. But Hebron left me with more questions than any sense of satisfaction I would normally feel from visiting so profound a site as this - so historically significant site as this. I took time to pray in the Mosque for the intercession of those ancient saints: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob - that they would help their errant great, great, great, great,... great grandchildren find joy and peace int he knowledge of our common ancestry. The Tomb of the Patriarchs is a great monument to great men and women, but it was hard for me to experience God there in the midst of occupation and tightening grip, in the face of apartheid and other injustice, in the face of hatred. O God of our ancestors, God of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob fill your sons and daughters with your Spirit and your grace that peace might be possible in this plagued land...
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