In Galilee: Walking in the Footsteps of the Anointed One

I spent the last five days in the northern part of Israel and visited many different kinds of sites while I was there. I was especially focused on the area around the Sea of Galilee (variously called the Sea of Tiberius or Knesseret), and most especially those sites associated with the life and ministry of Jesus. (I will talk about the other historical sites I visited in a separate post.) This time of pilgrimage continued the wonderful times of prayers focused on the Gospels that I have experienced in Bethlehem (the beginning of Jesus’ Life) and Jerusalem (the end of Jesus’ life) and Jericho.

Among the places I visited were Sepphoris (the traditional home of Mary’s family), Nazareth (where we visited two important sites associated with the life of Jesus and Mary), Cana (where we remembered Jesus’ first miracle), Mt. Tabor (the site of the Transfiguration of Jesus), Capernaum and Tabgha (Jesus’ adult home, associated with the fishermen disciples, many healings, and the post resurrection appearance at he seashore), to the Mount of the Beatitudes (where Jesus’ teachings are enshrined overlooking the Sea of Galilee), Caesarea Galilee (associated with Peter’s profession of faith and the meaning of discipleship), Kursi (remembering Jesus’ exorcism of the Garasene Demoniac). Along the way, we passed through familiar towns: Magdala, Naim, Bethsaida, Tiberius. We read scripture and studied, we prayed, we took lots of photos and we learned. A lot. As with the rest of the trip, I will never be able to read the Bible again, without remembering the terrain, the towns, the distances, the smells and sounds. I read on a map that there are five gospels – the four in the Bible and the Land of Israel. Reading the fifth opens up the other four. This sums up my experience of Galilee.

Impressions. The immediate impression of the Pilgrim traveling from Jerusalem to Galilee is that you have entered a different world. The countryside shifts radically along the way. Wilderness gives way to lush green agriculture. The high desert descends to below sea level and the humidity is palpable. The ten Northern Tribes and the Northern Kingdom of Israel has always been much richer than the Southern. It is no wonder that the Assyrians wanted it and left the desolate southern kingdom alone. That David established his capital at Jerusalem – desolate Jerusalem – had to come from God, anyone else would have chosen (and many did) the shores of Galilee. The photo above was taken from Mt. Tabor. You can get a real sense of the agricultural richness of this part of the country.

Nazareth. We visited two important precincts in Nazareth: the Convent of the Sisters of Nazareth and the Basilica of the Annunciation. Excavations beneath the Sister’s convent have revealed an early Christian worship center built over a 1st Century house. Some believe this to be the house that was occupied by the Holy Family as Jesus grew up. But even more interesting is the tomb in the lowest level of the excavations. (That's me sitting next to it in the photo.) The tomb has a rolling stone door and is one of only three such tombs extant in the whole Middle East (the claims of the Garden Tomb folks notwithstanding – they “created” their rolling stone door). This tomb has long been remembered as “the tomb of the Just Man” a title given to St. Joseph in the scriptures. While one cannot be certain, this may be the tomb of St. Joseph. We were blessed to have as our guide through the ruins, Sr. Stephania, one of the Sisters who is a biblical scholar and archaeological expert. She carefully guided us through a brief tour of this incredible archaeological site off the beaten path. My pictures from this site at http://picasaweb.google.com/FrBart/0713SistersOfNazareth do not do the site justice but will give you some sense of the specialness of this place.

After our time with the sisters we made our way through Nazareth’s souk to a small Greek Catholic Church in which are the remains of the synagogue of Nazareth (depicted at right). It was here, according to Luke’s Gospel that Jesus began is public preaching ministry (Luke 4:16).

From there, it was on to the largest Christian Church in the middle east, the Basilica of the Annunciation which was completed just prior to 1967’s Six Day War. Nazareth is one of few places in Israel where there is not a continuous Christian memory. The earliest shrines and churches built in this Arab city were destroyed by wave after wave of Muslim conquering. There was a 400 year period during which no Christian dared approach Nazareth. So the continuity of today’s shrines with ancient places of worship is less certain than in other places. When, in the 1950s, the Franciscans decided to tear down the previous shrine at Nazareth and build the present Basilica, plans were made for a massive archaeological project to confirm the site of the shrine. That project confirmed that the Site of the current Basilica was the site of both a Byzantine and Crusader era shrine, but could not go back beyond those places of Christina pilgrimage. The claim is that the current shrine (and those previous shrines) were built over the home of Mary where the angel Gabriel appeared to her and invited her to participate in the divine plan for the redemption of Israel and the salvation of all God’s creation. The crypt of the modern Basilica is built around a cave that is supposedly that dwelling of Mary. It has been venerated as such for at least 1500 years.

Throughout the Church and its surrounding precinct are art pieces – paintings, mosaics, sculptures, bas reliefs – given by Catholics from around the world in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary and her Divine Son. These artworks are displayed with the names of the countries that have sponsored them.

Up the hill from the Basilica is the small Church of St. Joseph, reputed to have been built on the ruins of a previous church which was built over the Site of the Saint’s home and carpentry shop. Among the beautiful art in this little church is a stain glass depiction (behind the altar in the Crypt Church) that depicts the wedding of Mary and Joseph – a scene rarely depicted in art(depicted at far right). In fact the entire crypt of this church is magnificent. Facing the altar there are a number of excavations, the most important of which is th baptismal pool. There are steps down into this pool large enough to immerse an adult human being.

There is much to photograph in what may be the ugliest church in Christendom. The scale is enormous and the exposed concrete of 1960’s minimalist architecture combine to make a really hideous structure. I wanted to like this Church (and there were elements that inspired), but, in the end, I was much more inspired to prayer by the excavations at the Sisters’ convent and the quiet little Church of St. Joseph. I am inclined to like modern Church architecture, but this building had too much going on and it was simply not coherent.

Having gotten that off my chest, I will admit to a certain inspiration that I drew from the cave chapel in the crypt church (pictured below). It was a very peaceful space in the midst of a very busy city. I was able to spend a few minutes in prayer in that space reflecting on the meaning of the annunciation and the centrality of the mystery of the incarnation in Christian claims. It was in this place that Mary said “Yes.” Mary’s consent to participate in God’s plan allowed the Incarnation to take place in her. Everything that I am studying and visiting in the Holy Land – indeed the very identity of this land as Holy – finds its meaning in the Incarnation. The meaning of all of human history is contained in those few words of a young woman in an out of the way, insignificant village 20 miles form the Sea of Galilee – “Be it done to me according to your word…” Mary gave permission for the Word of God to enter her and the course of human history was changed. That is what is enshrined in this massive structure in Nazareth. And that makes it beautiful...

My prayer is that I will always have the grace to say "yes" when God invites me to participate in His plans. Over the course of te next few days, I will have a lot of opportunity to reflect on discipleship. All discipleship begins with the invitation issued by God and our finding the Grace to say "yes. "

As the Blessed Virgin would remark in Luke 1:48 – "All generations have called her blessed…” Mary’s blessedness comes because she was the first – the first of many – to say “yes” to Jesus… Would that we will have the grace to do the same…

More reflections on Galilee to come. Enjoy pictures of the Basilica and the Church of St. Joseph at http://picasaweb.google.com/FrBart/0713BasilicaOfTheAnnunciation.